![]() ![]() Even the end fixture only has 2 fixtures between it and the transformer. ![]() Example you might have 6 fixtures on a run but the cable layout is like a T with 3 fixtures on the upper left part of the T and 3 fixtures on the upper right part of the T. ![]() Instead form T or spider splices so that there is never more than 2 fixtures between any one fixture and the transformer. You can do a couple fixtures in series, but we don’t recommend exceeding more than 3 fixtures or 75 watts in series. In other words do not connect fixture after fixture in-line to the same cable. Anything over 12 volts dramatically reduces lamp life–13 volts cuts the lamp life in half!). However if you use a higher voltage tap to make the far fixture brighter, the close fixture will be over-volted (dangerous, fire risk, lights will be uneven, lamp lifespan drastically shortened). Why? Because if you use the 12v tap, the close fixture will have the correct voltage (about 11 volts) but the far fixture will only have about 8 volts and be dim (because of voltage drop). For example, never have a fixture 20 ft from the transformer on the same run as a fixture 80 ft from the transformer. That way when you adjust for voltage drop by increasing the voltage for that one run, the lights are not over-volted or under-volted. The goal is have all the fixtures on a run be roughly the same distance from the transformer so they have similar amounts of voltage drop. TIP#2: Break Your Layout Into Distance Zonesįor example put fixtures 15-30 ft away from the transformer on one run, fixtures 25-40 ft on another run, fixtures 30-50 ft on another run, and so on. If you have more than 150 watts in an area - break it up into 2 runs. Break your layout up into multiple cable runs of ~ 100-150 watts per run. Lower loads per run means lower voltage drop. TIP #1: Break Your Layout Up Into Multiple Cable Runs ![]()
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